Three fishy characters

THREE FISHY CHARACTERS

Mrs. Beaton's Book of Household Management, first published in parts between 1859 and 1861, has been constantly updated and reprinted ever since and gives a remarkably accurate picture, over a wide strata of society, of the nation's eating habits from then until the 2nd World War drove change.

Torquay is by the sea and its Bay was thenl richly provided with many varieties of seafood. Fish was particularly important to Torquay's poorest inhabitants because for many, it represented the possibility of a free addition to their diet - and even if you didn't have access to a small boat, it would still only cost you a few coppers to buy what they couldn't sell from your neighbours at the end of each day.

All the photographs in this article were taken by James Dinham in Pimlico - the poorest area of the town - and he found plenty of fish sellers to point his camera at though few were engaged in selling in that street; instead, he caught them on their way up the steep hill to the elegant Italianate villas and hotels on the town's heights above, where fish was needed every day for a meal which poor people never ate - an evening dinner during which many courses were served. Seven-course dinners were for special occasions but four and five courses were the rule in hotels and the private homes of the professional classes - Mrs Beaton's writings suggest that three was the norm for a middle class family at home and she sets out dozens of menus covering the various seasons of the year.

Mrs Beatons' account of the available fish in the rivers and seas around the British Isles is very detailed but, as she continually emphasises, the supply varies from season to season and even goes out of season. Refrigeration has made us all forget that fruit, vegetables, fish, game and even meat were not available all year round and that for the chefs and cooks of the town, purchasing fresh food for the endless stream of courses demanded by Victorians was a nightmare which occurred every day.

"Crabby Garge. Do 'e want a crab today zur?"

Photographed by J C Dinham c.1900

We don't know George's full name but obviously, selling crabs is what he does, with one large sample attempting an escape from the basket on the left - an occupational hazard judging by the bandage on George's finger. Crab has always been a very popular delicacy in Devon although Mrs Beaton advises against eating them in May, June or July. She gives many recipes for hot or cold crab dishes and often uses them in a sauce to serve with fish.

The assistants who worked in James Dinham's shops would not have eaten formal dinners in the evening - instead, when they arrived home in the evenings, they had a meal called High Tea. This meal included sweet and savoury dishes, all put on the table at the same time instead of being served one after another as separate courses. A great favourite locally was potted crab. The crab meat was carefully scooped out of the shell and put into small pots, being topped up with large amounts of melted butter. A paper cover was tied on with string and the individual pots left on the marble slab in the pantry for a couple of hours while the butter cooled and set, before being served with slices of bread as part of High Tea..

"Passon Piles. Very Vresh vish"

Photographed by J C Dinham c.1900

There's no way now of knowing the real name of "Parson Piles" - it was obviously one of those nicknames which everyone is familiar with, just as everyone would have been familiar with his cry of "Very Vresh Vish!" Crabby George's approach was personal - this man called out as he approached the kitchens of the hotels and villas so that the cooks could be ready to come out promptly with dishes or a piece of muslin for wrapping their purchases, and money for his payment.

And his goods were quite superior. He may or may not have been the fisherman who caught the fish on this barrow but he certainly had access to the deep water further away from the shore. On the left he has what looks like a fine turbot which he would have wanted at least 10 shillings for, according to Mrs Beaton; a fine lobster occupies the middle of the barrow and on the right there is a stack of what could be Torbay Sole - or are these that most delicious fish, John Dory ? - hard to tell without picking one up. Whatever the decision, this is quality food destined for the tables of Torquay's wealthier inhabitants, nicely laid out on a very superior barrow.

"A Torquay fishwife with an up-to-date barrow"

Photographed by J C Dinham c.1900

And here is a someone whose customers come from a very different world. Her barrow is a poor thing and the basket gives away the fact that she is going from door to door. But look in the basket and see how meagre her stock is - she would probably been happy to sell her fish in small sections - flat fish were cut into "fillets" and round fish into "steaks" - terminology that still continues in fish and chip shops to this day.

And then look at her apron and ask yourself where and how this fish has been kept before it got here - no wonder Mrs Beaton continually repeats her instructions for the thorough cleaning of fish and gives minute instructions about how to tell when fish is out of season or otherwise past its prime.